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Story

8 Apr 2025

Italy: Union faces defamation case after coordinating protests for migrant rights in supply chain of luxury fashion co. Richemont; incl. co. comment

The fact that a Richemont company was filing criminal charges against the people standing up for the rights of workers – who have been exploited for years in the manufacture of their products – instead of supporting them does not sit well with the image of a socially responsible company.
Florian Blume, Richemont

In April 2025, Public Eye reported allegations of labour rights violations experienced by workers employed in Richemont's supply chain.

Pakistani, Afghani and Chinese workers employed at Z Production's factory in Italy (which also houses a subcontractor called Eurotaglio, which belongs to the same owner as Z Production) describe abusive working conditions including unreasonable working hours and low wages (one worker says he was paid around 3 EUR per hour). Z Production supplied to Richemont, producing Montblanc bags,

In 2022, thirteen Z Production and Eurotaglio workers joined the Sudd Cobas union and went on strike for better working conditions. Following negotiations, an agreement was signed and workers were no longer required to work beyond the legal maximum. However, following the agreement Richemont’s local subsidiary said it would terminate its contract with the supplier (Richemont told Public Eye assertions that the union agreement caused the contract termination are inaccurate).

Following the contract termination, Sudd Cobas organised new protests in 2023 both outside the factory and outside Montblanc’s Florence boutique. The union alleges the company “suddenly withdrew” from negotiations.

At the end of 2023, Z Production’s contract was terminated. In 2024, the union continued to cooperate with the workers to protest, after all union workers were dismissed. In 2025, Richemont filed a defamation and coercion complaint against Sudd Cobas officials. Richmont responded to journalists, alleging a “slander campaign” against Montblanc.

Public Eye also references a 2024 Al Jazeera report alleging abuse at Pelletteria A&S, which is five kilometres from Z Production (the company denies the allegations). The factory allegedly supplies to Montblanc. The reporting also mentions a 2020 court case against Richemont supplier Pelletteria Serena, alongside abuses impacting workers in Dior supply chain (see more here).

Z Production did not respond to Public Eye’s request for comment.

Based on the recorded footage from June 2024 and the statements made by the factory owner in it, a new factory has evidently received orders for the production of Montblanc leather bags through a sub-contractor, where, once again, labour rights – and the Richemont Code of Conduct – have been blatantly flouted.
Florian Blume, Richemont

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