'Fears UK-India trade deal could undermine sweatshops fight', 17 January 2022

"LONDON — Britain wants to get rich off new trade deals — but it risks making already-vulnerable nations poorer.

A U.K. agreement with India, the negotiations for which begin this week, could worsen conditions in the clothing sweatshops of South Asian neighbors, according to labor rights campaigners and a major industry group. They're pushing for social and environmental protections in any deal with India to avoid a race to the bottom.

Their fears center on the special arrangements London already has with developing nations known as the “generalized scheme of preferences” (GSP). This offers countries low or zero tariffs to help them cultivate business and ease domestic deprivation.

Pakistan, a major exporter of clothing, is categorized as an “enhanced framework” nation, designating it as a low or middle-income country. To be eligible for zero tariffs it has to sign up to certain rules on human and labor rights.

Bangladesh, another clothing powerhouse, is categorized as a “least developed nation,” meaning it automatically gets zero tariffs and quotas on all imports to Britain except on weapons. Bangladesh is soon expected to reach the same class as Pakistan. But campaigners worry that if India, an economic giant compared with its smaller South Asian nations, does a deal with the U.K. which allows it also to get zero tariffs on finished clothes, it could dominate the market at the expense of its developing neighbors — putting livelihoods and rights at risk. [...]

The trade department said ministers are committed to tackling the issue of forced labor in global supply chains, and would encourage other nations to respect international labor standards.

A U.K. government spokesperson said: “The government is clear that more trade will not come at the expense of human rights. The U.K. will continue to show global leadership in encouraging all states to uphold international human rights obligations and hold those who violate human rights to account. In line with our international obligations, the government will continue to ensure a high level of protection of labor standards in new trade agreements.” [...]

Campaigners are also calling for the government to pass laws to ensure producers have an obligation to prevent human rights abuses in their manufacturing chains, and to set up a fashion watchdog to enforce fair purchasing.

Others argue the U.K. needs to write enforceable provisions into a trade deal with India on protecting human rights and labor rights in the region. But they hold out little hope Britain will push for commitments they believed are needed...