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Report

21 Jun 2021

Author:
Sheffield Political Economy Research Institute

SPERI report highlights heightened risk of forced labour in supply chains of major UK fashion brands as result of industry response to pandemic

“The Unequal Impacts of Covid-19 on Global Garment Supply Chains”, 21 June 2021

‘The Unequal Impacts of Covid-19 on Global Garment Supply Chains’ has found that workers in Ethiopia, Honduras, India, and Myanmar who produce many of the clothes we buy from our favourite brands in the UK and Europe were severely affected by the pandemic.

The report finds that both those that were fortunate enough to remain employed, and those that lost their jobs during the past year and found new work, reported a sharp decline in their earnings and working conditions; and both groups experienced being at increased risk of forced labour during this time.

The study is the largest to directly involve the voices of those employed to make the clothes we buy in the UK during the pandemic alongside interviews with retailers and analysis of company documentation…

Professor Genevieve LeBaron, Research Fellow at SPERI and Professor in the Department of Politics and International Relations, said:

“They may end up in a job that they are unable to leave due to a number of reasons; false promises and deception to keep a person working in increasing worsening conditions, threat of penalties against the worker or their family if they left, or sometimes bonding a person into debt to the manufacturer through poor pay, leaving them struggling to cover their basic needs for housing and food.”

… It highlighted that many companies fell far short of their commitments to good practice; including sourcing sustainable goods from manufacturers with fair working conditions, pay and no use of exploitation.

The commercial actions of companies during the pandemic has brought to light how many business models within the garment industry are fundamentally at odds with these commitments, and that current government regulation does not go far enough to protect the workers.