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オピニオン

2024年12月10日

著者:
Karmojibi Nari (KN) and the Bangladesh Center for Workers Solidarity (BCWS)

On Human Rights Day, what needs to happen to protect Bangladesh’s garment workers?

As we mark Human Rights Day, this is a pivotal moment to reflect on the principles of dignity, equality, and justice for the millions of workers in Bangladesh’s Ready-Made Garments (RMG) sector. These values are fundamental yet remain elusive for many - especially women.

Bangladesh, the world's second-largest exporter of garment products, owes a significant portion of its GDP to this sector, which employs over 4.5 million workers. However, as the nation transitions toward greener industries to align with global sustainability goals, urgent attention is needed to address the implications for these workers, particularly regarding labour rights.

This year, Karmojibi Nari (KN) and the Bangladesh Center for Workers Solidarity (BCWS), supported by the Business & Human Rights Resource Centre (BHRRC), have joined forces to empower workers to advocate for better conditions while preparing for the challenges of a transforming industrial landscape.

Fardous Hasan Pranto, Shutterstock

Why this matters now

Labour rights are human rights, but despite Bangladesh's commitments under the Paris Agreement (COP21) and the adoption of a Nationally Determined Contribution (NDC) plan to combat climate challenges, millions of RMG workers face significant hurdles during this industrial transition. There is no clear framework to address their vulnerabilities to exploitation or ensure labour rights are upheld.

Recent political shifts in Bangladesh offer hope. Following mass uprisings and the stepping down of the former autocratic government, the appointment of an interim administration perceived as more pro-rights has brought renewed focus on advancing labour rights. The interim government has formed ten Reformation Commissions, including a ten-member Labour Reform Commission, tasked with ensuring labour rights and worker well-being.

Bridging tragedy and advocacy

The tragic death of 22-year-old Nayon Mia at Giant Textile Limited in Gazipur illustrates the urgent need for workplace safety reforms. While working overtime, Nayon was fatally injured in a washing machine accident caused by inadequate training and unsafe conditions. His wife alleges that he was forced into unsafe tasks without proper preparation. Authorities have since detained several factory officials, and legal proceedings are ongoing.

This tragedy underscores systemic risks faced by workers daily. KN and BCWS have used this incident to advocate for stricter safety standards, improved training, and greater accountability for factory management. They stress that workplace safety must be a cornerstone of the green transition to prevent further preventable losses.

The reality facing Bangladesh’s garment workers

While green factories and automation promise environmental and economic benefits, they often neglect workers' welfare and dignity. Automation, structural upgrades, and the transition to so-called green factories threaten job security and exacerbate inequalities, especially for vulnerable groups like women and climate migrants.

Recent dialogues hosted by BCWS and training programs organised by KN revealed significant gaps in workers’ understanding of 'green energy,' 'green jobs,' and 'just transition.' And this is understandable, given the lack of communication from international buyers themselves on how workers will be engaged and uplifted in brands’ climate strategies.

As it stands, automation - such as the introduction of auto thread cutters and sewing machines - has resulted in widespread job losses without adequate social protection measures. Women, who constitute 56% of RMG workers, are frequently excluded from decision-making and reskilling opportunities, further marginalising them.

A challenging landscape for workers

There are many challenges faced by Bangladeshi workers in the sector, which include:

1. Challenges to freedom of association: As outlined in BHRRC’s recent report on the state of freedom of association in the apparel sector, despite policy commitments to freedom of association and dialogue, in reality workers struggle to unionise and collectively bargain with employers.

This makes it challenging to secure improvements to decent work and safe workplaces, never mind the need to tackle the impact of the climate emergency and need to decarbonise the industry in a way that is inclusive of Bangladesh’s apparel workforce.

2. Lack of social protections: Workers face job insecurity due to automation and factory transitions without any safety nets.

3. Poor workplace adaptation to climate change: Many factories lack cooling systems, clean drinking water, and medical care despite rising temperatures.

4. Knowledge gaps: Workers are often uninformed about transitions to green practices, leaving them unprepared for changes impacting their livelihoods.

5. Weak laws and policies: Factory management frequently escapes accountability due to insufficient labour laws and enforcement.

A collective approach to action

To address these challenges, BCWS and KN have undertaken several initiatives:

  • Raising awareness and mobilising workers: Through the ‘Just Transition’ project, multiple training sessions have been conducted for factory-level leaders and workers. Over the past few months, KN has trained 60 participants - 92% of whom are women - from Narayanganj, Dhaka, and Gazipur, equipping them to participate in decision-making processes.

  • Advocating for just transition policies: BCWS and KN are pushing for the inclusion of workers' voices in national green energy policies, advocating for reskilling programs, job security measures, and gender-sensitive policies.

  • Promoting social dialogue: Tripartite discussions among workers, employers, and policymakers have been facilitated to address gaps in social protections, grievance mechanisms, and climate adaptation strategies. We now need to see issues such as heat stress and re-skilling included in collective bargaining agreements at the factory level.

  • Driving global collaboration: By partnering with BHRRC, BCWS and KN are linking local advocacy to international accountability mechanisms, ensuring global brands and buyers uphold their responsibilities under international labour standards.

What needs to happen next

On this Human Rights Day, we call on all stakeholders to commit to:

1. Ensuring job security and decent work: Employers must provide social protections, reskilling opportunities, fair wages, and harassment-free workplaces, while factories invest in facilities to address climate-induced risks.

2. Amplifying workers' voices: Freedom of association must be protected to enable worker participation in decisions about automation and just transitions.

3. Adopting national policies & securing funds for the just transition: The government must develop and enforce labour laws focusing on workers’ well-being and align with global standards.

4. Ensuring accountability for brands and buyers: Brands and buyers must be legally bound to uphold labour standards, similar to the Bangladesh Accord on Fire and Building Safety (2013).

Together, we can create a world in which every worker’s voice is heard, and every human right is respected.