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Статья

28 Окт 2025

Автор:
Yong-joon Park, Hankyoreh

S. Korea: Fashion giants including Samsung’s Beanpole accused of greenwashing over incinerated stock

Обвинения

“[Exclusive] ₩3.8bn worth of new Beanpole clothing incinerated: Samsung C&T’s ‘dark greenwashing’ exposed” 28 October 2025

On 23 October, Hankyoreh21 obtained documents from the office of Democratic Party lawmaker Lee Hak-young detailing the incineration of unsold clothing by three of South Korea’s largest fashion companies: Samsung C&T, Handsome (a Hyundai Department Store Group subsidiary), and LF. According to data submitted to the lawmaker’s office, Samsung C&T incinerated an average of 106.7 tonnes of unsold clothing annually between 2022 and 2024. Handsome destroyed 41.6 tonnes per year, while LF burned 45 tonnes annually from 2023 to 2024.

Despite mounting environmental concerns over wasteful practices in the fashion industry, these major firms have not significantly reduced the volume of clothing they incinerate.

[…]

Burning unsold garments emits significantly more carbon than donating, reusing or recycling them. It also releases harmful pollutants such as fine dust and heavy metals, as well as toxic chemicals like dioxins and furans, exacerbating air pollution.

The primary reason companies burn unsold clothing is to preserve the brand’s high-end image. The underlying strategy is to burn rather than discount or donate stock.

[…]

While discreetly destroying surplus inventory, fashion giants continue to promote themselves as environmentally responsible. In 2020, Samsung C&T pledged a sustainability partnership with its suppliers to “enhance the sustainability of the fashion industry”. Beanpole, one of its key brands, incinerated ₩3.79 billion worth of clothing over three years while simultaneously being marketed as eco-friendly. In 2022, the brand claimed to use recycled materials, and in 2020, it issued a press release titled “Read ‘eco-friendly’ when you read ‘Beanpole’”.

Calls are growing for the introduction of an Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) scheme to make manufacturers accountable for the disposal of clothing waste and to prevent the destruction of surplus garments. In response to public outrage over the practice among luxury brands, the EU is set to ban the destruction of unsold clothing and shoes from 2026.

In South Korea, however, discussions on this issue are still at an early stage.

[…]

To address clothing waste, the Ministry of Environment launched a fashion waste policy council with private-sector firms in June 2025. Samsung C&T, LF, and Handsome initially refused to participate, though Samsung C&T has recently expressed willingness to join.

Samsung C&T explained the increased incineration as a result of abnormal heatwaves and poor sales performance in 2024, stating: “We avoid excessive production from the planning stage and aim for full sell-through. Ultimately, the amount incinerated annually accounts for only 1% of total production.” In response to greenwashing allegations, the company added: “We will refrain from unnecessary marketing activities that may be perceived as greenwashing.” LF stated it is working to minimise surplus through data-driven forecasting, while Handsome said it plans to reduce waste by producing upcycled products from unsold inventory.