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故事

13 十二月 2024

Mauritius: Transparentem investigation prompts buyer remediation & compensation for migrant workers at garment factories supplying major apparel brands

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After a two year investigation into conditions for workers at five factories in Mauritius, Transparentem published its findings and results of its engagement with apparel brands, prompting remediation and compensation for migrant workers who suffered a litany of labour rights abuses. Almost 100 garment workers from Bangladesh were interviewed in total for the investigation. At DDI, Firemount companies and R.E.A.L. Garments, workers reported experiencing working conditions including several indicators of forced labour: recruitment fee-charging, deception, abusive working and / or living conditions, intimidation and threats, abuse of vulnerability, audit deception and deficiencies, and inadequate response to grievances. Workers at Aquarelle also reported paying high recruitment fees for work. Other potential issues including restrictions on sick leave, incorrect pay and lack of freedom of association were also identified.

I have come here by spending so much money. How will I go back?
DDI worker

Transparentem identified a total of 18 buyers sourcing from the factories, engaging with the buyers and management at the suppliers on the findings and recommendations. Seven approached brands - Armani, ASOS, Boardriders, Foxcroft, John Lewis Partnership, Kontoor Brands and Western Glove Works - reportedly did not participate in remediation on behalf of workers, four on the basis that they no longer sourced from the implicated factories though they did not deny sourcing from the factories at the time of the reported abuses. The remaining 11 formed buyer groups to remediate conditions at all four investigated suppliers, including commissioning audits which reportedly confirmed some findings, though no buyer or supplier provided the audit reports to Transparentem despite repeat requests to do so.

The suppliers provided policies in response to Transparentem's request to comment on the investigation's findings. All four denied workers had paid any recruitment fees. Management at DDI, Firemount and R.EA.L disputed most of the findings, excepting some on living and working conditions.

In May 2024, the Resource Centre invited all 18 garment brands to respond to the allegations and to provide information months after the investigation was made public, regarding the steps taken to investigate the allegations brought to it by Transparentem, to disclose audit reports for the factories, to confirm whether or not the brand was part of a buyer group and whether or not it had committed funds to remediate workers, and whether it committed to join the reimbursement efforts. Responses were received from Armani, ASOS, Boden, Centric Brands, Diesel, Foschini, G-Star RAW, John Lewis Partnership, PVH, WE Fashion and Woolworths. Boardriders, Foxcroft, Kontoor, Rodd & Gunn and Western Glove Works failed to respond.

In its response to the Resource Centre, PVH, Barbour and Second Clothing said they have committed to reimbursement for impacted workers at R.E.A.L Garments on a proportional basis to their production capacity.

Responses from buyers, manufacturers and the Mauritius government are made available by Transparentem - they can be read below alongside corrective action plans from DDI, R.E.A.L and Aquarelle. In August, the Resource Centre received a rejoinder from Transparentem which is available in full below. PVH, Barbour and Second Clothing subsequently released a statement the brands had signed an agreement with REAL Garments to partner on disbursement to workers, expected by September 2024.

"Migrant workers showed great courage in bearing witness through Transparentem. To date, only three brands have shown by their actions that they really listened to them. The cost of reform is high. But the cost of failure to reform is higher.”
Ben Skinner, president of Transparentem

Transparentem make a series of recommendations in the report including to the buyers of the investigated companies, to implicated suppliers, to auditors and audit companies (noting the failure of auditors to detect many of the issues outlined in the report), the government of Mauritius, companies sourcing from Mauritius, and to investors.

Unfortunately, it is no secret that Mauritius, similar to other economies, has opted to leverage its competitiveness through the overexploitation of migrant workers. If a migrant worker dares to denounce their employer for ill treatment or abuse they are deported overnight. Either you adapt or perish. However, the success behind this victory lies in the naming and shaming campaign that the CTSP launched at global level and we also exposed the exploitation in interviews with Transperantum. We applaud the positive news that workers will be compensated for the exploitation and commend the CTSP for their relentless campaign for migrant workers' rights in Mauritius.
Reeaz Chutto, Confédération des Travailleurs des Secteurs Publique et Privé (IndustriALL affiliate) president

In December 2024, Transparentem issued a second rejoinder highlighting reporting from September that found audits conducted and cited in buyers' responses had been misrepresented. Transparentem called on brands to work with their suppliers to repay recruitment fees to workers and to disclose the audit reports in full and all future audit reports throughout their supply chains. Centric Brands and G-Star Raw provided statements in responses; both can be read in full below.

企業回應

Giorgio Armani 瀏覽回應
Diesel 瀏覽回應
Foschini 瀏覽回應
Foxcroft

沒有回應

G-Star Raw 瀏覽回應
John Lewis (part of John Lewis Partnership) 瀏覽回應
Kontoor Brands

沒有回應

WE Fashion 瀏覽回應
Woolworths 瀏覽回應
Western Glove Works

沒有回應

Rodd & Gunn

沒有回應

PVH (Phillips-Van Heusen) 瀏覽回應
Second Clothing 瀏覽回應
Boardriders

沒有回應

Boden 瀏覽回應
Centric Brands 瀏覽回應
J. Barbour and Sons Ltd. 瀏覽回應

時間線

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