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Article

28 Oct 2016

Author:
Aruna Kashyap (Human Rights Watch), Cambodia Daily

Cambodia: Secretive & unchecked practices in “nameless factories” subcontracting for larger exporters make workers more vulnerable to abuse, says Human Rights Watch

"Opinion: The Secret Underbelly of the Cambodian Garment Industry", 

…Cambodia has many nameless factories. At the “Cow Poop factory,” cows relieve themselves at the factory entrance. Then there’s the Paper Flower factory, the Mango Tree factory, and those identified by an owner or manager’s first name. Garment workers in Cambodia may have a good sense of humor about these shadowy, unidentified factories, but people who work in them are more vulnerable to abusive labor practices that violate local law and international norms.

This is the underbelly of Cambodia’s garment industry and the lowest rung of the international apparel industry. Small factories often act as subcontractors for larger export-oriented factories, but are subject to far less scrutiny or monitoring. Many are secretive with their workers, and their working conditions and business practices stay largely under the radar. These small factories help cut costs for larger factories that are subject to more scrutiny. And they become all the more relevant with the recent increase in the garment sector’s minimum wage in Cambodia to $153 per month…

...Because production at these sites is unauthorized, such factories do not fall within a brand’s supply chain monitoring. In rare instances, brands that have detected the use of these factories have absorbed them into their supply chain.

Global apparel brands should urge the Cambodian authorities to ensure that all factories and workers are registered under the NSSF [National Social Security Fund], and press the government to publicly list registered factories. While brands should do much more to protect workers in small, subcontracted factories, encouraging the Cambodian government to take these steps is at least a step in the right direction…