Over 130 apparel brands, including Nike, have pledged not to buy Uzbek cotton. Yet Nike continues to source synthetics from Daewoo, the largest cotton processor in Uzbekistan and one of the few firms still operating in the region despite international pressure, says one campaign group.

Anti-Slavery International says Nike is refusing to cut ties with one of the major companies profiting from the forced labour in the Uzbek cotton industry. Daewoo International, the largest processor of cotton in Uzbekistan, is one of only a handful of companies that have defied an international call to stop using Uzbek cotton harvested using forced labour.

Several major brands, including H&M, C&A, and Michael Kors, have already ended their relationships with Daewoo over its alleged involvement in modern-day slavery.

…An open letter to Nike signed by Uzbek human rights activists, political leaders, and prominent dissidents called on Nike to stop doing business with Daewoo.

…In response, the sportswear giant said: "Nike takes very seriously reports of widespread use of forced child labor in Uzbekistan cotton production. We do not knowingly source cotton from Uzbekistan.

"Nevertheless, we are taking action on two fronts:

"1. Because global cotton markets are highly complex and difficult to trace with certainty, we are currently exploring ways to increase traceability across our cotton supply chain to verify that no Uzbek cotton is unknowingly entering our supply chain. This is an important next step for Nike and the industry in obtaining greater visibility to the conditions under which cotton used in our products is grown.

"2. Nike is participating in a US-based multi-stakeholder network, comprised of brands, industry groups, investors, trade unions, and NGOs aimed at eliminating the practice of forced child labor in Uzbekistan cotton production. We believe this group can play a critical role in communicating with stakeholders in Uzbekistan, including the government and the private sector, so that they are aware of our collective concern with ending this practice."