" The truth about hair relaxers: in the US, lawsuits over cancer. In Africa, soaring sales" 10 April 2024

[...] In October 2022, the US National Institutes of Health (NIH) published a study that found women who used hair relaxers more than four times a year were at a higher risk of uterine cancer. The study marked a tipping point in the US, building on more than a decade of scientific research in which women’s exposure to chemicals known as endocrine disruptors appeared to correlate with the development of uterine and breast tumours. Endocrine disruptors interfere with hormones that regulate functions such as mood, appetite, cognitive development and reproductive health. While many black women in the US are now rejecting chemical straighteners – filing thousands of lawsuits against manufacturers in the wake of the study – sales of the products in some African countries continue to climb. Tunisia, Kenya and Cameroon were among the countries worldwide leading sales growth for perms and relaxers from 2017 to 2022, according to Euromonitor, a market research firm. Sales in Tunisia and Kenya jumped 10% over the five-year span. South Africa and Nigeria also saw growth. [...]

Africa is a lucrative market for the cosmetics industry. It has the youngest and fastest-growing population of any continent, an expanding middle class and a flourishing community of millionaires. Hair and skin products are being developed to meet consumer needs. The global hair relaxer market is expected to grow from $718m (£570m) in 2021 to $854m annually by 2028. The companies at the centre of the US lawsuits produce some of Africa’s most popular brands. Dark & Lovely, owned by L’Oréal, is the best-selling relaxer in Nigeria. Ors Olive Oil No-Lye Relaxer, produced by Namaste Laboratories, is in second place. In Kenya, TCB Naturals is owned by Godrej Consumer Products, which describes itself as the “largest player globally in hair care for women of African descent”. All the listed brands are named in the lawsuit.