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์ด ํŽ˜์ด์ง€๋Š” ํ•œ๊ตญ์–ด๋กœ ์ œ๊ณต๋˜์ง€ ์•Š์œผ๋ฉฐ English๋กœ ํ‘œ์‹œ๋ฉ๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.

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2025๋…„ 8์›” 25์ผ

์ €์ž:
Archana Shukla, Roxy Gagdekar & Garikipati Umakanth, BBC

India: Workers at risk as factories across sectors as 'US customers vanish' amid 50% tariffs

"'How will I pay workers?': Indian factories hit hard by Trump's 50% tariffs", 25 August 2025

An eerie silence hangs over N Krishnamurthy's garment manufacturing unit in Tiruppur...

Only a fraction of some 200 industrial sewing machines on the floor are in operation, as workers make the last of the season's children's garment orders for some of the biggest US retailers.

At one end of the room, piles of fabric samples for new designs are gathering dust - casualties of US President Donald Trump's steep 50% tariffs on India...

Across Tiruppur...there's acute anxiety about what the future holds.

"September onwards, there may be nothing left to do," Krishnamurthy said, as clients have paused all orders.

He recently had to pause his expansion plans and bench nearly 250 new workers who were hired before the tariffs were imposed.

The timing of the announcement has made things worse because nearly half of annual sales for most export businesses are made during this period, in the run-up to Christmas.

Now these units are banking on the domestic market and on the upcoming Diwali season in India, to survive.

At another factory that makes underwear, we saw inventory of nearly $1m, meant for US stores, piled up with no takers.

"...How will I pay workers if this continues?" Siva Subramaniam, the owner of Raft Garments, told the BBC.

At a 50% tariff rate, an Indian-made shirt that once sold at $10 will cost US buyers $16.40 - far costlier than $14.20 from China, $13.20 from Bangladesh or $12 from Vietnam.

Even if duties ease to 25%, India will be less competitive than its Asian peers.

To soften the blow, the government has announced some measures - a suspension of import duties on raw materials, for instance. Trade talks with other countries have also gathered momentum to diversify markets. But many fear this is too little, too late...

Some 1,200km (745 miles) away, at an export zone in Mumbai, hundreds of workers are busy polishing and packing diamonds, part of India's $10bn gems and jewellery exports trade.

But jewellery brands here are nervous about the potential impact of the tariffs on their sales during September and October...

While India's new trade partnerships with the UK and Australia have opened up opportunities, years of effort to build a presence in the US could be undone in months, fears Adil Kotwal of Creation Jewellery, who sells 90% of his diamond-studded jewels in the US.

He works on thin margins of 3-4%, so even a 10% additional tariff rate is difficult to sustain. "Who can absorb these tariffs? Even US retailers will not be able to [do so]," Kotwal told the BBC...

American customers have vanished and factories that sustained nearly five million livelihoods are now operating for barely 15 days every month. Hundreds of contract workers have been sent on indefinite leave...

"This place used to be buzzing," says a worker. "Many people were fired recently. We don't know what will happen to us."

Shailesh Mangukia, who built the unit, says he once employed 300 workers. Now only 70 remain. The number of diamonds polished every month has plunged from 2,000 to barely 300.

Local trade union leaders such as Bhavesh Tank say workers here face "decreasing wages, forced leave and shrinking monthly incomes"...

Many of India's shrimp farmers, meanwhile, are considering switching to other products to survive the blow..

Along with other duties, total tariffs on shrimps now stand to go up above 60% - a body blow for the sector as prices have dropped by $0.60-0.72 per kilo since the tariffs were first announced and are expected to fall further once the 50% rate comes into effect.

"This is the peak season for US buyers preparing for Christmas and New Year sales. Farmers here are just starting their new cultivation cycle. Trump's tariffs caused great confusion. We're unable to make any decisions," Thota Jagadeesh, an exporter, told the BBC.

Hatchery operators say they've significantly reduced shrimp larvae production as a result...

All of this could affect the livelihoods of half a million shrimp farmers directly and another 2.5 million indirectly, according to estimates...

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